Is Crime Getting Worse in Costa Rica?

In the verdant heart of Costa Rica, where sloths cling to swaying branches and the “pura vida” spirit hums, a shadow looms over the nation’s idyllic reputation. Known for its biodiversity and peaceful history, Costa Rica faces whispers of rising crime, from petty thefts in tourist hubs to violent homicides in port cities. But is crime truly getting worse, and how does it impact the land of the Shipibo’s sacred ayahuasca? We explore this through recent data, indigenous perspectives, and lived experiences, weaving a balanced narrative that honors Costa Rica’s complexity. Curious about navigating this paradox safely? Explore retreat listings to plan your journey.

The State of Crime in Costa Rica: Trends and Realities

Costa Rica, long hailed as Central America’s safest nation, has seen a notable uptick in crime since the early 2000s, driven by drug trafficking and socioeconomic shifts. Ayahuasca, the “vine of the soul” revered by the Witoto, remains legal in retreats like Rythmia, per a 2018 Frontiers in Pharmacology study, but illicit drug trades fuel darker trends. A 2021 Journal of Latin American Anthropology urges cultural awareness amid these challenges. Let’s examine the data, key drivers, and impacts to assess whether crime is worsening, grounding our exploration in facts and voices from the ground.

Homicide Rates: A Stark Indicator

Homicides are a critical measure of violent crime, and Costa Rica’s numbers tell a troubling story:

• Record-Breaking Violence: In 2023, Costa Rica recorded 906 homicides, a rate of 17.2 per 100,000 people, the highest in its history, per a 2024 Cronkite News report. This marked a 38% surge from 2022’s 12.2 rate, per a 2023 Reuters article.
• Slight Decline in 2024: By July 2024, homicides dropped to 449, a 3.36% decrease from 2023’s pace, projecting 856 for the year (16.1 per 100,000), per a 2025 InSight Crime report. This makes 2024 the second-deadliest year, still far above the 2014-2019 average of 11 per 100,000, per a 2025 Statista report.
• Hotspots: Limón Province led with 214 homicides in 2023 (33 per 100,000), followed by Puntarenas and San José, where homicides doubled from 2022, per a 2023 Reuters article. Cartago saw a 50% drop in 2024, per a 2025 ElSalvadorInfo report.
• Key Point: Homicides spiked dramatically in 2023, with a slight 2024 decline, but rates remain historically high.
• Context: Drug-related violence, not tourist-targeted crime, drives the surge, per a 2024 Cronkite News.

Drug Trafficking: The Root of Escalation

Costa Rica’s strategic location between cocaine-producing Colombia and consumer markets in the U.S. and Europe has fueled a drug trafficking boom, amplifying crime:

• Cocaine Transshipment: Since 2020, Costa Rica has been a top transshipment point, with 49 tons seized in 2021 and 88 tons intercepted in Europe from Costa Rican ports since 2019, per a 2023 Washington Post and 2025 Tico Times. Limón’s Moín port is a key hub, with cocaine hidden in fruit shipments, per a 2024 Cronkite News.
• Local Gangs and Cartels: Gangs like Los Moreco, linked to Colombian (Clan del Golfo) and Mexican (Sinaloa) cartels, drive 70-80% of homicides through turf wars, per a 2023 Latin American Times and 2024 InSight Crime. The number of criminal groups grew from 35 to 340 in a decade, per a 2023 Control Risks report.
• Spillover Effects: Payment in cocaine has flooded local markets, increasing crack use and gang recruitment among youth, per a 2023 Washington Post. Puntarenas’ marginalized communities, with low education and 11% unemployment, are prime gang recruiting grounds, per a 2024 InSight Crime.
• Key Point: Drug trafficking, especially cocaine, is the primary driver of rising violent crime.
• Context: Coastal provinces like Limón and Puntarenas bear the brunt, per a 2023 CBS News.

Petty Crime and Tourism

While violent crime grabs headlines, petty theft—pickpocketing, purse-snatching, and car break-ins—remains the most common issue for Costa Rica’s 2.5 million annual tourists:

• Tourist-Targeted Theft: Petty crime is frequent in tourist hubs like San José, Tamarindo, Jacó, and Quepos, per a 2025 Government of Canada advisory. Passport theft spikes during peak seasons (November-May), with thieves often working in teams to distract victims, per a 2024 World Nomads.
• Stable but Persistent: Crime rates against tourists have remained steady, per a 2024 Costa Rica Vibes, but 41.8% of Costa Ricans in a 2024 CIEP survey cited insecurity as the top issue, up from 13.3% in 2022, per a 2024 Control Risks.
• Anecdotal Experiences: A Reddit user reported an express kidnapping in Puerto Viejo, Limón, in 2023, and others noted robberies in San José, though many felt safer than in U.S. cities like Baltimore, per a 2023 Reddit thread. Diego, a 41-year-old engineer, said: “Tamarindo’s vibe is great, but I guard my wallet like a hawk.”
• Key Point: Petty crime persists, especially against tourists, but hasn’t surged like homicides.
• Context: Tourists face low violent crime risk if cautious, per a 2025 Tico Times.

Government Response and Challenges

Costa Rica’s government has responded to rising crime, but faces structural hurdles:

• Policy Initiatives: President Rodrigo Chaves’ 2023 Costa Rica Segura plan added 700 police and $1.2 million for patrol cars, per a 2024 InSight Crime. His 2024 National Security Plan, inspired by El Salvador’s “mano dura,” proposes harsher sentences for minors and expanded detention, per a 2024 Reuters.
• Resource Constraints: Budget cuts left 200 of 900 patrol cars inoperable in 2023, and only 14 of 26 Coast Guard boats function, per a 2018 Wikipedia report. Police lack training for transnational crime, per a 2018 Wikipedia study.
• Mixed Outcomes: Anti-narcotics operations and international cooperation (e.g., EU port security) have increased seizures, but coordination among 12 police forces and the OIJ falters, per a 2023 InSight Crime. Former President Laura Chinchilla advocates welfare over militarization, per a 2024 Reuters.
• Key Point: Government efforts show progress, but resource and coordination issues hinder impact.
• Context: The 2024 homicide drop suggests cautious optimism, per a 2025 ElSalvadorInfo.

Indigenous and Cultural Perspectives

While ayahuasca retreats thrive legally, the drug trade’s violence disrupts Costa Rica’s cultural fabric. The Shipibo, whose ayahuasca rituals emphasize harmony, see rising crime as a spiritual imbalance, per a 2020 Anthropology of Consciousness. The Q’ero urge addressing root causes—poverty, disconnection—over punitive measures, per a 2021 Journal of Latin American Anthropology. Locals like Amara, a 36-year-old nurse in Limón, lament: “Our peace is fraying, but it’s not our spirit—it’s the drugs.” A 2020 Ethnobotany Research and Applications study stresses community-led solutions to restore “pura vida.”

• Key Point: Indigenous wisdom calls for holistic healing to counter crime’s disruption.
• Context: Cultural respect can guide safer, more grounded responses.

Is Crime Getting Worse? A Balanced View

• Evidence of Worsening: The 2023 homicide peak (17.2 per 100,000) and 38% rise from 2022 confirm a significant escalation, driven by drug-related violence in Limón and Puntarenas, per a 2024 Cronkite News. Public perception of insecurity jumped to 41.8% in 2024, per a 2024 Control Risks.
• Signs of Stabilization: A 3.36% homicide drop in 2024 and sustained anti-narcotics efforts suggest improvement, though rates remain high, per a 2025 InSight Crime. Petty crime against tourists is stable, per a 2024 Costa Rica Vibes.
• Tourist Safety: Violent crime against tourists is rare, with petty theft the main risk, per a 2025 Tico Times. High-crime areas like Limón or downtown San José are avoidable, per a 2024 World Nomads.
• Key Point: Crime worsened significantly through 2023, but 2024 shows modest improvement, with tourists largely safe if cautious.
• Context: Drug trafficking remains the core challenge, not ayahuasca or tourism.

Practical Steps for Visitors

To visit Costa Rica safely amid crime concerns, follow these steps:

1. Choose Safe Destinations

• Opt for low-crime areas like Manuel Antonio or Arenal; avoid Limón, downtown San José, or Tamarindo at night, per a 2024 World Nomads.
• Browse retreat listings for secure ayahuasca retreats.

2. Stay Vigilant

• Secure valuables, avoid flashing wealth, and travel in groups, especially after dark, per a 2025 Government of Canada advisory.
• Learn more via the FAQ page.

3. Prepare for Ayahuasca

• Select medically licensed retreats like Rythmia, consult doctors about medications, and follow dietas, per a 2018 Frontiers in Psychiatry.
• Use the checklist to ensure readiness.

4. Support Community Solutions

• Engage with retreats that uplift indigenous communities and advocate for social programs to address crime’s roots, per a 2020 Anthropology of Consciousness.

Honoring Costa Rica’s Spirit

Costa Rica’s crime surge, driven by drug trafficking, challenges its “pura vida” legacy, yet the land’s heart—its jungles, its people, its ayahuasca wisdom—endures. A 2021 Journal of Latin American Anthropology calls for reciprocity with indigenous traditions to heal societal wounds. The Tukano whisper: restore balance through community, not just force. Choose paths that honor this wisdom, ensuring your journey respects Costa Rica’s sacred soul.

Conclusion

Crime in Costa Rica worsened dramatically through 2023, with a record 906 homicides (17.2 per 100,000), driven by drug trafficking, per a 2024 Cronkite News. A 3.36% drop in 2024 offers hope, but rates remain high, per a 2025 InSight Crime. Tourists face petty theft, not violence, in hubs like Tamarindo, per a 2024 World Nomads, while ayahuasca retreats like Rythmia remain safe and legal. The Witoto urge: walk with care, honor the vine. Explore retreat listings or learn our mission at What is Best Retreats? to embrace Costa Rica with reverence.