Are Drug Cartels Active in Costa Rica? Considerations for Ayahuasca Retreat Seekers

In the hush of a Costa Rican jungle, where fireflies weave through the twilight and a shaman’s icaros hum, an ayahuasca ceremony unfolds, promising healing and insight. Costa Rica, long a haven of pura vida and pristine beaches, draws thousands to its ayahuasca retreats. Yet, recent headlines cast a shadow: reports of drug cartel activity and rising violence. For seekers planning a transformative journey, a pressing question emerges: Are drug cartels active in Costa Rica, and how does this impact the safety of ayahuasca retreats?

At Best Retreats, we prioritize clarity and safety, empowering you to make informed choices for your ayahuasca experience. While Costa Rica faces challenges with drug trafficking, the reality for retreat-goers is nuanced, far from the sensationalized “narco-state” narrative. In this immersive guide, we explore the presence of drug cartels in Costa Rica, critically assess their impact on tourism and retreats, and offer practical tips to ensure a safe, meaningful journey. Let’s navigate the truth behind the headlines and safeguard your path to healing.

Drug Cartels in Costa Rica: The Current Landscape

Costa Rica, once a beacon of peace in Central America, has seen a surge in drug-related violence, driven by its strategic location as a transshipment point for cocaine from South America to the U.S. and Europe. Recent reports confirm that drug cartels and local gangs are active, but their scope and impact on tourists, particularly ayahuasca retreat participants, require careful unpacking.

The Rise of Drug Trafficking

Costa Rica’s geography—sandwiched between cocaine-producing Colombia and Panama, with extensive Pacific and Caribbean coastlines—makes it a prime corridor for drug smuggling. According to a 2023 U.S. State Department report, Costa Rica ranks among the top Western Hemisphere countries for cocaine transshipment, with 35.1 metric tons seized in 2019 alone. The country has shifted from a mere transit point to a warehousing hub, with local gangs collaborating with Mexican cartels (e.g., Sinaloa) and Colombian groups (e.g., former FARC elements).

Key developments include:

• Homicide Surge: In 2023, Costa Rica recorded 907 homicides, a rate of 17.2 per 100,000, with 70% linked to drug trafficking. 2024 saw 880 homicides, the second-highest on record. Limón, the Caribbean port city, is a hotspot, with a homicide rate five times the national average.
• Local Gangs: Groups like Los Moreco, led by figures like José Efraín López Mendoza (arrested in 2019), have emulated Mexican cartel tactics, engaging in territorial battles and money laundering. Other gangs, such as the Turesky Gang and Gang of El Indio, contribute to violence.
• Foreign Influence: Mexican cartels, notably Sinaloa, arm local gangs with AK-47s and grenades, while Colombian groups establish logistics networks. Italian ‘Ndrangheta also exploits Limón’s port for Europe-bound cocaine.
• Fentanyl Emergence: In 2024, Costa Rican police, with DEA support, seized 34,000 fentanyl pills, signaling a new threat from synthetic drugs.

A 2024 Le Monde report notes that since 2019, European ports seized 88 tons of cocaine from Costa Rica, highlighting its role as a “logistical center” for cartels. Security Minister Mario Zamora has described a “Mexicanization” of crime, with local gangs adopting brutal tactics like torture and assassinations.

Critical Examination of the Narrative

While these reports paint a grim picture, the “narco-state” label often pushed by media and critics like

@PIERO_CALANDRE on X is exaggerated. Costa Rica’s homicide rate (17.2 per 100,000) remains lower than neighbors like Honduras (35.1) or El Salvador (pre-Bukele, 50+), and its institutions, while strained, are less corrupt than regional counterparts. Claims of Costa Rica becoming “like Ecuador” (where homicides soared 74.5% in 2023) overstate the crisis, as Costa Rica’s 2024 homicides dropped 3.36% in the first half compared to 2023.

Moreover, allegations of government collusion with cartels, as reported by El Universal and echoed on X, lack substantiated evidence beyond isolated cases of low-level corruption (e.g., four OIJ agents linked to a syndicate in 2021). President Rodrigo Chaves’ aggressive anti-crime stance, including a 2024 decree allowing police to use automatic weapons, counters the narrative of a complicit state. Sensationalized reports may serve external agendas, as some X users speculate, potentially justifying U.S. militarization pressure—a historical pattern in the region.

Impact on Ayahuasca Retreats and Tourism

For ayahuasca retreat seekers, the key question is whether cartel activity threatens safety in Costa Rica’s retreat hubs, such as Nosara, the Osa Peninsula, or Guanacaste (home to Rythmia). The data suggests minimal direct risk to tourists, particularly in retreat settings, but vigilance is warranted.

Safety in Retreat Areas

• Geographic Disconnect: Cartel activity is concentrated in urban and port areas like Limón, San José’s Pavas district, and Puntarenas, far from retreat centers in rural or coastal regions like Guanacaste or Nosara. Ayahuasca retreats, often nestled in jungles or private estates, are removed from drug trafficking routes, which focus on maritime ports and urban markets.
• Tourist Safety: Despite 2.5 million visitors in 2023, tourist-related crimes are primarily petty (e.g., theft), not cartel-driven violence. A 2024 Reddit thread on r/CostaRicaTravel dismisses concerns about cartels in national parks, noting they operate in remote, non-tourist areas. OIJ data confirms only 5-10% of crimes involve foreigners.
• Retreat Security: High-end retreats like Rythmia employ private security, medical staff, and gated facilities, minimizing external risks. Smaller retreats in Nosara or Osa often operate in low-crime areas with community ties, further reducing exposure.

Potential Risks

• Indirect Effects: Rising violence in urban areas like San José could spill into tourist routes if unchecked, though retreat-goers typically bypass these zones. A 2024 La Nación report notes growing tourist hesitation due to crime perceptions, potentially affecting retreat bookings.
• Drug Market Proximity: Costa Rica’s growing domestic drug market, fueled by cocaine payments from cartels, increases petty crime in tourist hubs like Tamarindo, near Guanacaste. Retreat participants exploring nightlife could encounter risks, though these are unrelated to ayahuasca ceremonies.
• Misinformation: Sensationalized media, like a 2024 Univisión report calling Costa Rica a “new narcoroute,” may amplify fears, deterring seekers unnecessarily. Critical scrutiny reveals these narratives often lack context about tourist safety.

Participant Experiences

• Positive Reports: “I felt safer at my Nosara retreat than in my hometown,” shared Maya, a 35-year-old retreat-goer in 2024. “The jungle vibe and staff vigilance made it serene.”
• Urban Caution: “San José felt sketchy at night, but our retreat in Osa was a world apart,” said Raj, a 40-year-old participant. “Stick to the retreat plan, and you’re fine.”
• Awareness Needed: “I read about cartels, but our Guanacaste retreat was gated and calm,” noted Clara, a 38-year-old. “Just avoid wandering into risky towns.”

Ensuring Safety at Ayahuasca Retreats: Practical Tips

While drug cartel activity poses minimal direct threat to ayahuasca retreats, proactive steps ensure a safe, transformative experience. Here’s how to navigate Costa Rica’s landscape as a retreat seeker:

1. Choose a Reputable Retreat

Select a retreat with robust safety measures and cultural respect:

• Facilities in low-crime areas like Nosara, Osa Peninsula, or Guanacaste, away from urban or port hotspots.
• Retreats with private security, medical staff, and health screenings, like Rythmia or Soltara.
• Operators collaborating with indigenous or Colombian shamans, ensuring authenticity and community ties.
  Explore trusted options on Best Retreats’ retreat listing page, from jungle sanctuaries to coastal havens.

2. Research Your Travel Route

Minimize exposure to high-risk areas:

• Avoid Urban Hubs: Fly into Liberia (LIR) for Guanacaste retreats, bypassing San José’s Pavas or Limón. Use retreat-provided shuttles to avoid public transport.
• Stay Retreat-Focused: Limit exploration to retreat-organized excursions (e.g., beach trips) rather than venturing into towns like Tamarindo or Puntarenas, where petty crime is rising.
• Check Advisories: Review U.S. Embassy updates on Costa Rica’s safety, which note low risks for tourists outside urban centers.

3. Prepare Mindfully

Set yourself up for a secure experience:

• Learn the Context: Understand Costa Rica’s safety landscape via Best Retreats’ FAQ page to ease concerns and focus on healing.
• Set Intentions: Journal your ayahuasca goals—e.g., emotional clarity, spiritual growth—to stay grounded amid external noise about crime.
• Assess Readiness: Use Best Retreats’ free checklist to confirm physical and mental preparedness, ensuring resilience during ceremonies.

4. Stay Informed and Vigilant

• Monitor Local News: Follow reputable sources like The Tico Times for updates on crime trends, avoiding sensationalized narratives.
• Community Insights: Engage with retreat alumni or forums like r/CostaRicaTravel to gauge real-time safety experiences.
• Trust Your Instincts: If a retreat or area feels unsafe, pivot to alternatives in safer regions like Dominical or Uvita.

Honoring Ayahuasca’s Sacred Heritage

Ayahuasca, often called “yagé” in Colombia’s tradition, is a sacred medicine rooted in Amazonian wisdom. While Costa Rica’s retreat scene thrives, its drug trafficking challenges underscore the need for ethical engagement. Choose retreats that honor indigenous lineages, support local communities, and prioritize safety, ensuring your journey respects the medicine’s cultural roots. This approach not only enhances your experience but aligns with Costa Rica’s pura vida ethos, even amid its struggles.

Conclusion: Navigating Costa Rica’s Safety for Ayahuasca Retreats

Drug cartels are active in Costa Rica, driving violence in urban and port areas like Limón and San José, with local gangs and Mexican/Colombian influences fueling a record 880 homicides in 2024. However, ayahuasca retreats in rural hubs like Nosara, Osa, and Guanacaste remain largely insulated from this activity, offering safe havens for transformation. By critically assessing exaggerated “narco-state” claims, choosing reputable retreats, and traveling wisely, you can embrace Costa Rica’s ayahuasca offerings with confidence. The pura vida spirit endures for those who approach with care and respect.

Ready to plan a safe ayahuasca retreat in Costa Rica? Best Retreats connects you with trusted sanctuaries far from urban risks. Visit our retreat listing page to find your path, and learn about our mission at What is Best Retreats?. Begin your journey with clarity and reverence.

Curious about Costa Rica’s safety or ready to book a retreat? Dive into Best Retreats’ FAQ page for insights or download our free checklist to prepare. Share your thoughts or questions in the comments, and subscribe to our newsletter for the latest on ayahuasca and holistic wellness.